Like a secret whispered in a low voice, a site with a unique charm is nestled among the angular rocks of Atrani
The enigmatic beauty of the Church of Santa Maria del Bando is revealed to us thanks to the guidance of Giovanni Proto, manager of the Sanctuary, who with his spontaneous historical vocation draws the past of this area. He narrates and moves the reins of events like a puppet that comes to life and projects history into the present.Even more from his silences than from his words, one can deduce his affection for the territory and, in particular, the desire to bring to light this still rather unexplored site.
«I have been responsible for this sacred place for 21 years and have looked after it. At the time, in 1999, it was the illustrious Monsignor Beniamino, archbishop of Amalfi and Cava dei Tirreni who awarded me this position”.
In the church which is here absorbed in the greenery, Don Carmine, parish priest of Atrani, regularly celebrates mass, keeping the religious hearth alive.
Historical origins Church of Santa Maria del Bando in Atrani
In itself, the route that leads up to the top is worth the excursion.Lost in the vertical drapery of the neighborhoods of Atrani you still seem to hear the echo of the “bando”, which from the medieval church on Mount Maggiore harmonized with the population below, at the time of the Maritime Republics.It is no coincidence that even today the current Sanctuary (since 1944, when Monsignor Rossini declared it as such) is known as Santa Maria del Bando.
The first attestations of the structure date back to 1187, and according to legend it seems to be the vow of a man condemned to death pardoned by the Madonna.
An uphill journey
Impetuating in its sacred guise, the Sanctuary awaits visitors who walk up the approximately 750 steps, freeing themselves from the maze of Atranese stairs. Mr. Domenico (72 years old), a loyal local, has now worn out those stairs, and even the rooms as if they were furniture.
«Every day I walk down these stairs» – he tells us with a determined step and without getting out of breath – «I go up to take care of the gardens under the Sanctuary and keep my days busy».
Along the gentle hike, within a curtain of living senses, the wild scent of alyssum and soup bubbles, like vapors from an ancient kitchen. In the segmented alleys you can admire the intimacy of the local community and the white smell of clothes hanging out to dry.
«That is the point where a fully illuminated comet is launched, straight towards the cathedral, on Christmas Eve, at midnight sharp», reveals Domenico, stopping along the slope, on the large veranda of a house.
The interlude
In the midst of this nature, there is certainly no shortage of lemon groves, faithful to the good name of the Coast. Two young men at work, Alfonso and Salvatore, are intent on fixing the palisades, intended to support the pergola.Beyond the houses clinging to the rock and the views swallowed up by the alluvial plain of the Dragone, the white house of the mother of Tommaso Aniello de Fusco, known as Masaniello, Antonia Gargano, can be seen just before reaching the entrance to the Sanctuary.
The Masaniello Caves still live here to guard its memory, in the mystical silence that governs the area. It had been the last refuge of the captain general of the Neapolitan people, before being killed in the Church of Carmine in Naples, on 16 July 1647.
And today excavations would like to bring to light ancient silent memories in the cave.
Holiday celebrations
Every year in Santa Maria, during the Christmas holidays, a very skilled local craftsman assembles nativity scenes in small glass bells, which are then drawn by lot in January.The various shepherds of the nativity scene and the glass bell itself are purchased in San Gregorio Armeno, all the rest of the composition is the meticulous and creative work of the craftsman.
«This idea was born to finance the necessary restoration works, both of the Sanctuary and of the entire surrounding area» – Giovanni explains to us – «We started with the assignment of three nativity scenes the first year. Then they liked the initiative and today we have managed to offer ten of them.” Like any self-respecting holiday, at the end of the rituals, the community is reunited in a banquet of pasta and beans and sweets, in that inevitable vortex of culinary abundance, almost emblematic of our southern land.
Hope for the future
Mr. Domenico stops at the Sanctuary for a good part of his day, and with the distinctive energy of the “old style” he dedicates himself to taking care of the lush gardens at the foot of the church.
Giovanni is also always here, to give his contribution, so that the announcement reaches more ears and the light of this pearl can slip out.
«What I hope – Giovanni declares with hope in his eyes – is that we can increasingly animate this place, make it known and encourage people to come here on excursions, so that it can have the glory it deserves».
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Circumirando - Il viaggio a "mondo" nostro 